Douceurs de Tripoli

Tripoli is the sweets capital of the Levant, and this family confectionery has held its corner of the old souk for a century. Baklava is layered by hand, halva is pulled on the marble the old way, and the syrup is orange-blossom water from the Bekaa, never glucose.

The brothers still fire the copper trays over open flame because the caramel line on the bottom layer cannot be faked in an electric oven. Boxes are packed the morning they ship — sweets this fresh were never meant to sit.